Christopher Pellegrini, an American-born shochu expert, manages an export company for shochu brands in Japan and an import business for shochu in New York. He is also the author of The Shochu Handbook, a book dedicated to this traditional Japanese spirit.
Pellegrini urges stronger backing from well-funded organizations to help shochu expand beyond Japan. He explained, “Once it leaves Japan, it becomes a whole new category. We need more resources to promote it.”
He believes digital marketing and creative campaigns are essential but notes the industry lacks collective support. “People are afraid to spend money on it,” Pellegrini said. “That’s entirely the fault of the Japanese government, because they’ve done so much to promote sake but have been hesitant to pursue what could be a bigger market. Japan sells more shochu and awamori each year than sake, yet sake receives far more international promotion.”
The Long Road Ahead for Shochu
Pellegrini expects change but warns it will take years of persistent effort by smaller players. “It often takes 15 to 20 years of hard work and sweat from the little guys who stay grounded and build momentum. Then people start thinking, ‘This is a sure bet. Now, let’s invest.’ I believe we are at that stage now.”
Challenges in U.S. Distribution
Pellegrini highlighted the complexity of selling shochu in the U.S. due to the country’s three-tier distribution system. “Getting product into the country through an importer is one thing,” he said, “but finding distributors willing to sell it is another. Many distributors currently focus on selling their worst-performing products. It’s a tough situation for shochu companies.”
Learning from the Sake Industry
Pellegrini pointed out that the sake industry has long prioritized international sales and market expansion. In contrast, shochu producers have focused mainly on Japan due to strong domestic sales.
“The sake industry benefits from government aid and subsidies,” he explained. “Prefectures pool resources to help local sake producers target various markets.” He warned that shochu must “figure out quickly” how to replicate this success, adding, “I really believe shochu can have its mezcal moment.”
Shochu Industry’s Need to Collaborate and Invest
Pellegrini admires the sake industry’s large teams dedicated to events and promotions, which the shochu industry lacks. “Suppliers need to be more supportive and involved,” he said. “I tell the shochu and awamori industries: no one knows what shochu is yet. We shouldn’t get stuck on our own products but focus on growing the whole category.”
He stressed the importance of resetting strategies, investing time, energy, and money. “It’s a huge challenge,” he said.
Distillers Hesitant to Take Risks
According to Pellegrini, apart from Iichiko, one of the best-selling shochu brands, many large distilleries are cautious. “They’re waiting for lower risk,” he explained. “Once they start investing overseas, they want to see significant growth quickly — within the first few market cycles.”
He concluded, “I don’t know if that will happen in two years or twelve, but it would have been better if they had started earlier.”
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