The craft of bartending is often judged by a mix of precision, tradition, and personal flair — and for television personality and culinary expert Alton Brown, it’s also a test of credibility. Before ordering his preferred cocktail, the Boulevardier, Brown uses a classic drink to evaluate a bartender’s skill: the Old Fashioned.
In a 2015 interview on The Eater Upsell Podcast, Brown revealed his go-to strategy when visiting a bar for the first time. Asked about his drink of choice upon arrival, the Good Eats host replied, “An Old Fashioned.” He elaborated on the reasoning, explaining that the cocktail serves as a benchmark for gauging a bartender’s abilities. “Just tell them to make one and watch how they do it, because it involves several different skills, most of them ignored,” Brown said.
The Old Fashioned, which dates back to the early days of American cocktail culture, is considered a fundamental whiskey-based drink. Despite its apparent simplicity, it is often mishandled in bars across the country. Common missteps include selecting the wrong type of liquor — a low-proof bourbon is typically the safest choice if the customer doesn’t specify — as well as improper measurements of bitters, with two to three dashes being the standard.
Presentation also plays a role in the drink’s integrity. Errors such as using sugar packets instead of cubes or simple syrup, muddling fruit unnecessarily, employing small or fast-melting ice, or serving the drink in an incorrect glass can all compromise its quality.
While Brown acknowledged the existence of many skilled professionals capable of executing the cocktail properly — particularly in cities like Manhattan — he also expressed concern over a trend in modern bartending. “There are a lot of really, really good bartenders here,” he said, referring to the location of the podcast recording. “The problem is that most of them call themselves mixologists. That becomes sometimes a problem.”
Brown’s comments highlight not only his discerning palate but also a broader discussion within the hospitality industry about the balance between tradition and innovation in bartending.
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