Yudai Matsuzaki, a 37-year-old distillery owner near Tokyo, wanted to create craft gin for a simple, heartfelt reason. He wanted to use the forests where he played as a child. Matsuzaki also loves gin, which fueled his desire even more.
Craft Gin Gaining Ground in Japan
Japan is famous for shochu and whiskey, but small-scale distillers like Matsuzaki are driving a growing interest in craft gin. These distillers use local ingredients to create unique flavors.
Domestic shipments of spirits were under 1.2 million litres in 2019. The Japan Spirits and Liqueur Manufacturers Association expects shipments to rise to over 5.5 million litres by 2024. This shows a strong trend toward gin in Japan.
What Makes Gin Special?
Gin is a distilled spirit made from grains such as barley. Juniper berries give it its classic flavor. This allows producers to add other ingredients and experiment more than with other alcohol types.
Matsuzaki’s Forest and His Unique Gin
At his distillery in Kawagoe, Saitama Prefecture, near Tokyo, the air is often filled with the scent of citrus. Around 2010, Matsuzaki planted a conifer tree for juniper berries in a forest where he played as a child. The tree struggled at first because it needs cool, low humidity. But with care and shade from surrounding trees, the tree finally bore fruit.
Unlike many Japanese distilleries that use imported botanicals, Matsuzaki insisted on using his own local ingredients.
“I wanted to express the taste of the hometown where I was born and raised,” Matsuzaki said. His brand “Togedama” has grown in popularity since its 2020 launch.
Gin’s Advantages Boosting the Industry
One reason for gin’s rise is that distilleries for whiskey and shochu can be adapted to produce gin. Gin does not usually need to be aged, so it can be sold more quickly. The association notes this is a big advantage.
This boom has encouraged many small and medium-sized shochu and whiskey makers to start making gin using their existing equipment.
Regional Distilleries Embrace Local Flavors
In Okinawa Prefecture, Masahiro Shuzo Co. makes gin from the redistilled Okinawan spirit Awamori, flavored with local bitter melon called “goya.”
In Iwate Prefecture, Nanbu Bijin Co., a sake brewer, adds smoky notes by using fired lacquer wood during distillation.
Goto Tsubaki Distillery in Nagasaki Prefecture produces gin scented with camellia flowers native to the area.
Growing Gin Culture and Consumer Interest
Gin bars and online shops are also increasing. Copain, a craft gin bar in Tokyo, offers about 900 varieties. Owner Tetsuo Hagawa, 55, says customers come in large numbers to find gins they enjoy. He aims to make gin a familiar drink, not just a trend.
Major Companies Join the Movement
Big players like Suntory Holdings Ltd. and Asahi Breweries Ltd. have entered the market. Suntory launched sugar-free canned gin in 2020, and Asahi plans to follow in 2024.
A company representative said demand remains strong because gin pairs well with many foods. “The momentum is unstoppable,” they added.
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