With the poise and precision of a sushi master, Manabu Ohtake stands behind the bar at the Royal Bar in Palace Hotel Tokyo, a beacon of refined cocktail artistry in Japan’s capital. But instead of shaping rice or slicing fish, Ohtake’s focus is fixed on a jigger and a bottle of whisky. Measured movements and unwavering concentration define his process as he crafts what will become a flawless whisky sour—balanced, elegant, and executed with a level of care that borders on reverence.
Ohtake, the hotel’s master bartender, exemplifies Japan’s meticulous approach to craft. In a country where punctual trains, immaculate streets, and artfully composed dishes are part of daily life, the same principles of precision and discipline apply to cocktail making.
“In international cocktail scenes, the emphasis is often on the atmosphere—the space, the energy,” Ohtake explains through a translator. “In Japan, the focus is different. Here, we value the procedure of making the cocktail above all else. That’s about 80 percent of everything.”
The Royal Bar, a dimly lit, intimate venue nestled within Palace Hotel Tokyo, serves as Ohtake’s stage and laboratory. Its classic decor evokes a bygone era, while the soft strains of jazz float through hidden speakers, creating a space where every detail is calibrated for sophistication. This atmosphere sets the scene for Ohtake’s creations, many of which reflect the Japanese appreciation for simplicity executed with mastery.
Timeless cocktails reign supreme in Japan’s bar culture. While younger patrons may begin their journey with imaginative concoctions, they often transition to classics—negronis, whisky sours, martinis—drawn to their purity and precision. This mirrors the Japanese culinary tradition, where seemingly simple dishes such as sushi and tempura are elevated through disciplined technique.
“Japanese people enjoy simple things,” Ohtake notes, “but the importance lies in the procedure and attention to detail.”
Japan’s cocktail heritage traces back to the port city of Yokohama in the late 19th century, where Western influence first introduced bartending culture. The Bamboo cocktail, first served at the Yokohama Grand Hotel, became one of the country’s earliest signature drinks. Following World War II, the culture blossomed, becoming a distinctive part of Japanese hospitality.
Tokyo’s Royal Bar, under the original Palace Hotel in the 1960s, played a significant role in that development. It was once helmed by Kiyoshi Imai, known as “Mr. Martini” for his dedication to the classic drink. Imai’s influence spread across Tokyo, inspiring the creation of intimate bars in districts like Ginza, Omotesando, Ebisu, and Shinjuku—venues where precision and calm continue to define the craft.
Ohtake, himself an award-winning bartender, carries that legacy forward. His whisky sour is served in a short glass, garnished with a large, crystal-clear ice cube. His interpretation of the negroni substitutes gin with shochu, a traditional Japanese spirit he believes is vastly underappreciated internationally.
His seasonal take on the Penicillin cocktail includes apple juice and is topped with a delicately dehydrated slice of apple—a process requiring days of patient preparation. Each drink reflects the spirit of Japan’s culinary discipline, blending art, science, and cultural pride in a glass.
In the world of Japanese cocktails, the ingredients may be familiar, but in the hands of craftsmen like Manabu Ohtake, they become something extraordinary.
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