California and Australia share striking parallels in their wine histories and styles. Both regions saw their first vineyards planted in the late 18th century and experienced significant population growth during the 1850s gold rushes, which spurred the establishment of vineyards near goldfields. By the 1960s, both regions witnessed a transition from the popularity of generic fortified wines to varietal table wines. Today, they produce vast quantities of affordable wines in hot inland areas alongside premium wines from cooler coastal regions.
The grape varieties planted in California closely mirror those in Australia. Chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon dominate the Golden State’s vineyards, with sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, and merlot also widely cultivated. One notable exception is California’s signature zinfandel grape, which has yet to gain a foothold in Australia. Californian wines have traditionally been crafted in a style that emphasizes bigger, richer, and more powerful profiles, a contrast to current Australian trends favoring more restrained wines.
Despite these similarities, Californian wines remain underrepresented in the Australian market. This absence raises the question of why Australian consumers should consider imported Californian wines when high-quality local options abound. Elaine Chukan Brown, a leading American wine writer and author of The Wines of California, acknowledges Australia’s strong domestic wine industry but emphasizes the unique qualities that Californian wines can offer.
Brown recently conducted a masterclass on Californian wines in Australia, showcasing more than 140 bottles from over 50 producers. The event attracted sommeliers, retailers, restaurateurs, and media, revealing both well-known and lesser-known labels. Established names like Chateau Montelena, Ridge, and Clendenen Family Vineyards were featured alongside innovative offerings such as Matthiasson’s orange wine crafted from ribolla gialla.
While cabernet and chardonnay remain dominant, Brown highlighted California’s expanding diversity in grape varieties, particularly those originating from France’s southern Rhone Valley. The state is also a pioneer in sustainable viticulture practices.
A prime example of Californian innovation is Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles. Founded in the 1980s through a collaboration between the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in the Rhone and the Haas family from California, Tablas Creek introduced Rhone grape varieties to the region. The vineyard’s limestone soils proved ideal for these varieties, leading to the planting of all 13 recognized Chateauneuf-du-Pape grapes. Tablas Creek has also contributed to the broader adoption of these varieties by distributing vine cuttings to other growers.
In 2021, Tablas Creek made history as the first vineyard globally to achieve “regenerative organic” certification, reflecting its leadership in environmentally conscious winemaking.
The distinctiveness and quality of these wines present a compelling reason for Australians to explore Californian offerings.
Highlights from the Californian Wines Masterclass
- 2022 Birichino Scylla (Santa Cruz): A blend of carignan, grenache, and mourvedre, this wine is dense yet vibrant, featuring bold dark fruit, firm tannins, and a lively character. Priced at $80, imported by bibendum.com.au.
- 2020 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Blanc (Paso Robles): Primarily roussanne and grenache blanc, this wine showcases ripe honeyed aromas with textured, elegant flavors, finishing with a refined savory tension. Priced at $130, imported by qedwines.com.au.
- 2020 Matthiasson Ribolla Gialla (Napa Valley): Inspired by Italian skin-contact wines, this wild-fermented, barrel-aged wine offers tangy, gutsy flavors balanced by a smooth texture and subtle grip. Priced at $150, imported by cruwines.com.au.
- 2021 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay (Napa Valley): A classic Californian chardonnay, the current vintage balances ripe fruit, savory oak, citrus freshness, and complex layers. Priced at $190, imported by West Coast Wine Cellars.
- 2022 Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz): From vineyards producing the renowned Monte Bello cabernet, this wine delivers pure blackcurrant fruit, vibrant tannins, and a wild edge. Available vintages include 2018–2020. Priced at $190.
These selections illustrate the breadth and depth of Californian winemaking, inviting Australian consumers and wine professionals alike to appreciate the unique expressions and sustainable ethos that define the Golden State’s wine industry.
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