Penfolds and Château Lafite Rothschild are the only two wine brands to have truly achieved iconic status in the Chinese market, according to Xing Wei MW, who passed his Master of Wine examinations in 2024.
Speaking at ProWine Hong Kong, Wei highlighted specific cultural and marketing factors that have propelled both brands to the forefront of Chinese consumer recognition. He pointed to Penfolds’ signature red packaging and the fortuitous Chinese translation of its name, which roughly conveys the meaning “rush to rich,” as key elements of its appeal.
In contrast, Lafite has strategically aligned itself with Chinese cultural symbols in a more nuanced manner. Wei cited the 2008 Lafite vintage, which incorporated the Chinese character for “eight” on the label — a number traditionally associated with prosperity in China. “This shows respect, in my opinion, because you are showing respect to the Chinese market,” he noted.
However, Wei cautioned against superficial attempts by international producers to capitalize on Chinese imagery. He criticized efforts that rely heavily on stereotypical motifs such as dragons or pandas, labeling such tactics as ineffective and reductive. “It’s the Year of the Dragon, then the Year of the Snake, then the Rabbit. Every year [brands] do the same, putting a snake or a dragon [on the label] for this vintage. It’s so lazy to do that,” he said.
For brands without the universal name recognition of Penfolds or Lafite, Wei recommended a different approach: emphasizing their country of origin. Citing his Master of Wine research, he explained that the provenance of a wine remains a decisive factor for Chinese consumers. “Country of origin is an important factor that influenced people’s buying patterns,” he stated, referring to national identity as a “soft brand” for producers.
This strategy tends to favor countries with an entrenched reputation in China’s wine market, such as France. “People think French wines are all good. That’s not true, but that’s good for sales,” Wei said.
Wei also identified a disconnect in how tasting notes are presented to Chinese consumers. Many producers rely on descriptors involving Western fruits, which are often unfamiliar to the average Chinese wine drinker. “Think about blackcurrant; nobody knows blackcurrant in China,” he said, suggesting that brands adopt more culturally relevant terminology. While wine professionals may understand such references through formal training like WSET, everyday consumers do not. “For normal consumers, you need to find something they are familiar with,” he added.
Failure to do so may alienate potential customers. Wei warned that overly technical or foreign wine descriptions can cause consumers to feel embarrassed by their lack of knowledge, leading them to abandon wine altogether.
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