The world of traditional British beer has lost a dedicated craftsman with the death of Ken Don, former head brewer at Young’s, who has died at the age of 80. His passing comes at a time when the celebrated cask ales he once championed are being relocated yet again—this time to Burton-on-Trent, a town with brewing traditions far removed from their South London origins.
Ken Don joined Young’s Ram Brewery in Wandsworth in 1980, but the affection many Londoners held for the brewery and its products predated his arrival. In an era dominated by the rise of keg beer, Young’s offered a rare sanctuary for those seeking unfiltered, unpasteurised, and properly hand-pulled ale. Young’s Bitter—paradoxically dubbed “Ordinary”—stood out with its nuanced balance of biscuit malt and peppery hops, offering a counterpoint to the mass-produced brands flooding pubs across Britain.
Don became a stalwart defender of quality brewing, continuing Young’s deep-rooted commitment to traditional methods and ingredients. Under his stewardship, the brewery remained faithful to revered British brewing standards, including the use of Maris Otter barley and Fuggles and Goldings hops. When Maris Otter faced extinction in 1989 due to commercial pressures favouring higher-yield grains, Don joined forces with other brewers like Adnams and Marston’s to secure its future through direct farming contracts. His decision, he once noted, added merely a farthing to the cost of a pint—an investment in flavour few would dispute.
The Ram Brewery itself was a unique, living relic of Victorian brewing, complete with shire horses delivering oak casks and waterfowl roaming freely through its grounds. Visits to the site were steeped in tradition, with the Sample Room offering fresh ale straight from the cask—a highlight for many in the industry and beyond.
Yet change loomed. In 2006, Young’s announced the closure of its Wandsworth facility following pressure from the local council to vacate the increasingly traffic-congested site. A new brewery location could not be secured, and the Ram’s final batch was served at the funeral of the brewery’s chairman, John Young, who died that September.
Production was moved to Bedford through a new venture with Charles Wells, forming Wells & Young’s. Don spent several weeks meticulously adapting his beers to the different brewing environment, training his house yeast to thrive in enclosed conical fermenters, a significant departure from the open square fermenters of the Ram. His efforts ensured that the Bedford-brewed versions retained the integrity and complexity of their originals, drawing praise from discerning beer critics and loyal consumers.
The partnership with Charles Wells ended amicably in 2011, but the beers remained in Bedford until 2017, when the site was sold to Marston’s. In a series of corporate handovers, the brewery was eventually acquired by Spanish conglomerate Estrella Damm, which ceased ale production in favour of lager.
Subsequent brewing was transferred to Banks’s in Wolverhampton, but the regional style—renowned for sweeter, maltier profiles—did not align with the sharper hop characteristics of Young’s ales. Long-time drinkers noted the difference and expressed dissatisfaction.
Now, the beers are poised for another transition. The recently formed Carlsberg Britvic (formerly Carlsberg Marston’s Brewing Company) has announced the closure of the Banks’s brewery this autumn. Production of Young’s beers will move once again, this time to Marston’s facility in Burton-on-Trent—a location famed for its historic brewing pedigree, yet known for water with a high sulphur content that imparts a markedly different flavour profile.
Ken Don’s legacy lives on in every pint that still bears the Young’s name, but the beers are now far removed from the Ram Brewery and the hands that once meticulously crafted them. As the brewing industry continues its consolidation, Don’s contributions stand as a reminder of the value of tradition, quality, and the fight to preserve real ale.
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