Rome, Italy – In the heart of Mediterranean cuisine, olive oil and wine are more than ingredients—they are central characters in a complex narrative of taste and tradition. When paired thoughtfully, they create a harmonious synergy that elevates every aspect of a meal.
The principle behind pairing olive oil and wine lies in balance. Each component should enhance, not overpower, the other, ensuring that the overall complexity of a dish is deepened, not disrupted. Both olive oils and wines offer a vast range of profiles—from delicate and buttery to robust and peppery, or crisp and acidic to full-bodied and tannic—making the potential combinations as diverse as the cuisine itself.
“At the beginning of a meal, a good bread with an elegant olive oil introduces the palate,” explained Alex Lomazzi, sous chef at Michelin-starred Il Pulejo in Rome. “The olive oil shouldn’t overwhelm your palate with bitterness.”
Lomazzi recommends starting with fruit-forward olive oils such as Tonda Iblea, paired with sparkling wines like Champagne or Franciacorta. “The gentle fruitiness of the olive oil beautifully balances the crisp acidity and effervescence of sparkling wines,” he noted, adding that avoiding overly bitter oils ensures the wine’s brightness remains intact.
A Foundation Built on Technique and Heritage
Lomazzi’s nuanced approach to pairings was shaped by a diverse culinary journey. He began his career at Il Convivio in Rome, a Michelin-starred restaurant known for its refined flavor combinations. Later, his move to France expanded his expertise, particularly in sauces.
“French cuisine gave me a technical foundation. Even if butter is king there, I’ve always brought olive oil with me,” he said. In France, he began blending butter and extra virgin olive oil in seafood sauces, enhancing depth and complexity. A standout example is combining olive oil with Chardonnay to create a velvety sauce that highlights the natural richness of seafood.
Seasonal Pairings: Embracing the Rhythm of Nature
Seasonality plays a crucial role in Lomazzi’s philosophy. During spring, lighter olive oils like Coratina work well with vegetable emulsions, complemented by lightly oaked Chardonnays. “Imagine grilled spring vegetables paired with elegant white wine—each bite fresh and vibrant,” he said.
In colder months, the culinary approach shifts toward intensity. Robust olive oils add dimension to hearty soups and roasted dishes, often paired with full-bodied reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. These pairings align with the richer, earthier notes of fall and winter produce.
Despite trends in some Roman restaurants toward serving butter with bread, Lomazzi maintains a strong preference for olive oil, especially in warmer seasons. “When temperatures go above 20 °C, that’s the perfect time to return to our roots. Olive oil is lighter, fresher, and part of our Mediterranean culture,” he said.
Delicate Touches for Seafood and Vegetables
Fish and seafood present unique pairing challenges due to their subtle flavors. For raw preparations like shrimp or carpaccio, Lomazzi prefers Leccino olive oil, citing its balanced profile and almond undertones. These dishes pair well with floral white wines that feature tropical notes and a hint of acidity, enhancing the natural sweetness of the seafood.
In cooked seafood dishes, slightly more intense olive oils can be used to draw out deeper flavors. Fuller-bodied white wines like Viognier or oaked Chardonnay provide the structure needed to complement this complexity.
Seasonal vegetables also benefit from olive oil and wine pairings. A springtime sauce made from turnip greens and light olive oil evokes freshness, especially when served with grilled vegetables and white wines aged briefly in wood.
Elevating Meat with Finishing Oils
When it comes to meat, Lomazzi advocates for restraint. “Cooking meat directly with olive oil can be tricky,” he said. Instead, he finishes grilled meats with specialty oils, such as smoked extra virgin olive oil from Puglia. Wines like Montiano, known for their soft tannins and round profiles, pair particularly well with these smoky notes, offering warmth without overwhelming the dish.
“It’s a wine that I love with smoked oil on grilled meat—full, enveloping, with a nice balance,” Lomazzi said.
This meticulous attention to matching olive oils with the right wines and dishes reflects a broader commitment to culinary precision. “It’s rare to find restaurants that use several oils for different uses. But if you really research flavors, the right oil can unlock a dish. Just like wine,” he emphasized.
Pushing the Boundaries of Tradition
Chefs and sommeliers are increasingly exploring unconventional pairings, using infused or regionally distinct olive oils to craft new culinary experiences. Lomazzi credits a formative encounter with a Tunisian-Sicilian olive oil producer for sparking his deep interest in olive oil’s potential.
“We don’t give enough importance to olive oil. Most customers never ask which extra virgin olive oil is used. But some do, and they’re the ones who appreciate what we’re doing,” he said.
For Lomazzi, olive oil deserves the same consideration as wine. Its flavor varies by cultivar, region, processing method, and season, and it can dramatically shape the outcome of a dish.
“When you work with sauces, especially with fish, you choose the olive oil, and you choose the wine. And they become part of the same story,” he concluded.
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