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From Genetics to Grapes: The Journey of Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker Steph Dutton

by Kaia

Becoming a winemaker for one of the largest producers in the world requires a unique path, as shown by Steph Dutton, a senior winemaker for Penfolds. For Dutton, the journey began in the bustling hospitality scene of Melbourne, Australia, where she was born.

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“I was doing my honors degree in genetics, and like many university students, I worked in hospitality,” Dutton recalls. “Through my job, I fell in love with wines from all over the world.”

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This passion led her to pursue short wine courses. “I remember going through course after course until I was asked if I wanted to consider doing the long course,” she says.

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After completing her degree at the University of Melbourne, Dutton moved to Adelaide to earn a master’s degree in oenology, solidifying her path into winemaking.

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She joined Penfolds in 2007 and by 2010, she became part of the red-wine making team in South Australia’s Barossa Valley. Her dedication and expertise led to her promotion to senior winemaker in 2017, a role that now spans across continents.

A Role That Crosses Borders

Dutton has been instrumental in Penfolds’ Californian portfolio, showcasing her meticulous attention to detail and profound knowledge of winemaking.

“Viticulture is a slow process,” Dutton explains. “Our work in the northern hemisphere began with the acquisition of land in California back in 1998. It took 20 years before we released our first wine from that region.”

In 2024, Penfolds marks its 180th anniversary with a special release—the Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2021. The commemorative vintage is made from two of the oldest vineyard plots in South Australia’s Coonawarra region—block 10 for cabernet sauvignon and block 5 for shiraz.

Commemorating 180 Years

When asked about the commemorative wine, Dutton reflects on its historical ties. “I look at this wine and I think of some vintages from our past, like the 2008 Bin 620, the 1966 Bin 620, and even the 1980 Bin 820,” she says. “This [Bin 180 2021] will have a 30-year lifespan.”

The 2024 collection also includes the much-anticipated second release of Penfolds’ experimental Chinese Winemaking Trial (CWT) 521 Cabernet Sauvignon Marselan. This follows the debut of its 2021 Chinese vintage.

A New Frontier: Winemaking in China

The CWT 521’s name reflects its origins, with grapes sourced from five vineyards—four in Yunnan province and one in Ningxia, China. The 2022 vintage blends cabernet sauvignon from Yunnan’s Shangri-La region with a higher proportion of marselan grapes from Ningxia compared to the inaugural release.

“At the moment, we’re exploring trial work with grapes from China, and it’s resulted in a wine that we’re excited to share with collectors and loyalists,” Dutton says.

As for whether Penfolds plans to acquire real estate in China like it did in California, Dutton says, “At the moment, no. But are we exploring? Absolutely.”

With her vast experience and passion for winemaking, Steph Dutton continues to shape Penfolds’ global legacy, crafting wines that stand the test of time.

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